Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
